This is
an addendum to the page Installing SHS 1295 or Kadee 802
Couplers.This includes observations on installing these couplers on an American
Models 40' Box Car. I only have one car, so I don't know if these comments apply
to other series of the AM box cars, any information gratefully received!
Most of the steps documented on the previous page apply to this boxcar.
One difference is the coupler pad molded onto the floor. It has a central hole cored for a 2-56 screw. A 2-56 is too large to use with an 802 or a 1295, but works great if you are using Kadee #5 couplers. There is also a locating pin molded onto the pad. Again, this would perhaps work well with a #5, but it seems to be a sloppy fit in the hole of an 802. I decided to cut it off and use two screws for mounting.
Remember that I mentioned that the clearance hole needed for a 2-56 screw (#43 .089") is too large for an 802? I found that out by trying! The boss just spun off on the bit. So I decided to use the now modified (and otherwise useless) coupler box as a drill pattern! I screwed it to the car with a 2-56 screw, got it nice and aligned, and carefully drilled the 2 holes with a #55 (.052") bit for the Kadee 0-48 screws. The 1295 couplers use a slightly smaller screw, but the #55 still seems ok.
Further experiment showed that with no coupler shim or bolster pad, the 802 came in at about .010 high, which would require a .010" coupler shim, and the 1295 came out .040 low, requiring that size bolster pad. I ended up using the 1295s, with .040 thick washers as bolster pads. Both ends of the car were the same, but the floor of this car seems to float a bit, so I'd expect some variation among different cars.
Let me know if you try one, and have anything to add!